{SoChick Fabric Shoppe} Introducing: Pick Your Bundle

A new year means fresh starts... and new fabric for your stash! 

Stop by my shoppe today, to make your own little bundle of Fat Quarters!   Remember, a fat quarter is a quarter of a yard of fabric which is cut 18 x 22 inches. (Read more about Fat Quarters in my Guide to Fabric)

Brand new in the SoChick Fabric Shoppe you will find two Pick Your Bundle options:

Option 1:


Easy, pick five fat prints, from the available Quilting Cottons, to complete your Fat Quarter bundle.



Option 2:


Pick twelve prints, from the available Quilting cottons, to complete your FQ bundle!

I always say that buying many smaller cuts of fabric is an economical way to familiarize yourself with several designers/prints, but it's also super great for building up your stash and Fat Quarters are sew perfect for little projects that you just can't justify cutting into yardage for!

You can choose from ANY available Quilting Cottons in the Shoppe for your bundles. Want some of Tula Pink's Salt Water mixed with Jennifer Paganelli's Happy Home and a sprinkle of Joel Dewberry's Aviary2?  You've got it!  


{Shop Now}

Happy Sewing!
XxOo~ Melissa

The SoChick Chick's Guide to Fabric [Part 5: 'Other' Fabrics I Love; Q&A]

I have enjoyed working on this fabric 'road map' I call "The SoChick Chick's Guide to Fabric"; I hope you have been able to learn enough about quilting cottons to get you started on your sewing journey with a bit more confidence.


Is this your first time seeing The SoChick Chick's Guide to Fabric, you may want to start here to see what it's all about: [Looking for Fabric 101? You've Got It]

[Part 5: "Other" Fabric, Q & A]


Since I have based this Fabric Guide largely on quilting cottons (my favorite), I thought it would be a great time to share some of the "other" types of fabric I enjoy sewing with, as well as some tips for difficult fabrics that I have learned along the way.


{Home Decor Fabric}


'Home dec' fabric is a pretty broad term in my world, seriously.  When I hear "Home Dec" Fabric" I think anything from Dupioni Silk to Cotton Duck Canvas to Jaquard... Yikes!


My favorite "Home Decor" fabrics are Linen, Cotton Canvas (including duck), and Cotton Sateen.


I have used all of these fabric in handbags and have to say they are pretty simple, with the exception of Linen being a little slinky to cut... but, it makes for some beautiful totes!

Tip: Use Linen to add shabby chic accents to items by fraying the raw edges.

Cotton Duck is great for bags that are going to get a lot of use, i.e. Messenger bags, diaper bags, overnight, etc.  I like adding prints to the mix to freshen things up a bit.


Custom Diaper Bag & Custom Messenger Purse

Cotton Sateen is great for adding body and durability... here is my most recent use of Cotton Sateen: 

Another fun material to work with is Cotton Laminate, this is quilting cotton that has a laminate overlay, so it can be wiped clean, is great for raincoats, placemats, table coverings... etc.


Here is a great link to Pink Chalk Studio's post about Working with Cotton Laminates. 


Here is my first major use of working with laminate, lining a diaper bag:

Tip: A Teflon foot is recommended for sewing laminate so that things move smoothly without getting caught up under the needle.  Fact: I do not have a Teflon foot.  Fact: Tear-away embroidery stabilizer works wonders for sewing over Laminates AND Vinyl.  Also, I've been known to stick some masking tape on my foot and presser plate to help things along... though the tear-away has worked the best thus far.




I could go on and on about fabrics and tips, but for now I'm going to wrap up this series with a little Q & A.  I posted on twitter a few days ago and was happy to receive some Questions as well as a comment on the blog the other day:


Q: What is the best stabilizer to stiffen my bags (stand up on own)?


A:  There are a few options here, my preference is to use fusible fleece for the lining fabric and a heavy weight sew-in for the interlining.  This is what helps to give bags like SoChick Savannah Tote a tailored look.  

Another option is to use Craft Fuse, which is a heavy weight fusible interfacing.  I tend to use this only for smaller items, as I'm not thrilled with how it bonds to fabric.  


Finally, Pellon makes a very heavy-duty stabilizer called Peltex.  This comes in a sew-in, single sided fusible, and double sided fusible.  This adds serious strength and shape to bags, it's important to trim within the seam allowance when using this product to save your needles and reduce bulk in your seams.


Q: How do I best reinforce the area under magnetic snap closures?


A:  It took some time for me to figure this one out, as I don't like to also feel the back of the magnetic tab through my bag.  Typically I will cut a square of fusible interfacing to put on the wrong side of my fabric, where I plan on applying the snap.  If I am using a heavier weight fabric without interfacing, I will double-up on the fusible squares for extra reinforcement.  Often, I will cut an additional square of heavy-weight sew in to put behind the snap, before applying the metal backing.  I find that this gives my snap a little something to "hold on to" and doesn't stress the fabric.

Q: How much fabric should I expect to use in making a handbag?


A:  Of course, this will vary depending on the size bag you are making and it's style, but I have found that, generally, you can get away with purchasing 3/4 - 1 yard of fabric to make a medium sized handbag.  In Part 3 of this Fabric Guide, I mention using Fat Quarters... I use three Fat Quarters to make my Daisy Handbag.  Those FQ's cover the Exterior, Lining and Accents; this is great if you tend to snatch up smaller cuts of fabric for your stash.  There are a lot of bags out there that work with FQ's.

Q: Any tips on sewing with knits?


A:  I'm not super experienced in garment sewing, but I have some experience with using knits for projects.  My number one tip is to be sure you are using a ball-point needle.  This allows your needle to pass through the knit of the fabric without piercing it and creating holes.  Another fact about knits is that they don't fray. This is nice for items, like the ruffle scarves I make, where you leave a raw edge, because the raw edge tends to curl into itself.  Yay. 

Ball-point needles also come in handy for sewing heavy-weight fabrics... it's true!  I use a ball-point needle when I  am working with canvas bags, again, since the ball-point doesn't pierce the fabric, it finds it's way through the weave of the fabric, which saves from broken needles!


Thanks so much for your feedback!  I am always open to answering questions to help you with your sewing adventures!  A lot of skills are learned through trial and error, and you may find that what works for others doesn't always work for you.


Happy Sewing!

XxOo~ Melissa

Weekend-Wrap Up & I Want Your Sewing Questions

This past weekend was another good one, though it rained all day yesterday and got a little chilly... I'll survive, I guess.


I have another custom order I'll share later this week as well as finally sharing about the Sewing Expo I went to weeks ago, and will be attending again in June, in Raleigh, NC.


Today, though I want your feedback.... have you seen my Guide to Fabric?

Well, I need to wrap that up... I have one post left where I'll tell you about some fabrics I enjoy working with, other than quilting cotton, but I also want to use it as a Q & A... So here's what I'd like from you:


What tips & tricks do you want to know to help you on your sewing journey?


Any questions about bag making you'd like answered?


How about sewing in general... need some tips?


Ask away in the comments, I'll take your questions and include them in my final Guide to Fabric post.  Sometimes finding the answers really is as simple as asking a question!




Happy Monday!


XxOo~ Melissa

The SoChick Chick's Guide to Fabric [Part 4: Interfacings & Interlinings]

Welcome back to The SoChick Chick's Guide to Fabric.  My little road-map to fabric, mostly quilting cottons, to help jump-start your sewing journey!

[Part 4: Interfacing & Interlinings]


Interfacing and Interlinings are used in bag making as well as other crafts.  I'm going to be talking mostly about it's use in bag making, since that's what I mostly do.


Not only will Interfacing and Interlining bring your handmade bags up a notch with a professional look and finish, they also help them to last longer by reinforcing your pretty fabrics!


Fusible and Sew-In:
For the purpose of my Guide: Interfacing refers to fusible products that adhere to your fabric.  Interlining is what you sew into your bag for stability and shape without fusing to the fabric.


Sew-In Interlinings:
Light-weight Sew-in is best used for sheer or light-weight fabrics to add support without affecting the drape of the fabric (the way the fabric falls/drapes).  I like these for lining pockets and accents on my bags, when I need just a touch of extra shape.  Light-Weight sew-in is also nice on slouch-style bags, again, lending support without making the bag too stiff or boxy.


Heavy-weight: This sew-in is great for bags requiring a tailored look.  I love it paired with fusible interfacing, which I'll get to, for bags with crisp details, like the SoChick Savannah Tote.

SoChick! Savannah Tote

Canvas: Canvas is great for not only bringing shape to a bag but really upping it's durability factor.  Not to mention, natural canvas is usually very reasonably priced and at 60 in wide, it's an economical choice for making all kinds of totes.  I use it in the SoChick Market Tote for shape but mostly reinforcement/durability.

Canvas interlining adds durability to the SoChick Market Tote

**All of these Sew-in Interlinings would be sewn into your bag between the exterior and ling fabrics.

Fusible Interfacing:  This is a product that is fused, using the heat of an iron, to the Wrong Side of your fabric.  Different Fusible Interfacings can be used to acheive different effects, from light reinforcement to being able to shape your fabric for tailored-look bags and even fabric bins!


[Woven vs. Non Woven]


Woven Interfacing is exactly what it's name implies; it is essentially woven fabric that has lengthwise/crosswise grain and stretch with a layer of adhesive on the back that, when heated with your iron, will fuse it to your fabric of choice.


My pick for Woven Interfacing is Pellon SF 101.  This particular product is a little more expensive, but it gives great feel to quilting fabrics and I love the professional looking finish!


Here is an example of adding woven interfacing to a piece of Kona Quilting Cotton:

I chose to have the light in the back to show how interfacing helps add some weight to your fabric.

Notice how the woven interfacing (back) supports the fabric but still allows for movement? The piece of fabric in the front has no interfacing and is a little floppy.

Non-Woven Interfacing does not have lengthwise/crosswise grain, it is made like a web with little to no movement.  It comes in different weights much like the sew-in interlinings.


Light-weight:


Pellon 906F - you may choose to use this for smaller accessories and bags, for adding a little extra support to your fabric.  I personally feel like this would be the non-woven counterpart to the SF101 I mentioned above.  *remember, though, that non-woven will not move with your fabric the way woven interfacing will, so if you are making slouchy-styled bags, I'd stay away from non-woven.


Extra-Firm:


Pellon Fusible Peltex -This is a ultra firm fusible interfacing that provides serious stability to your projects.  It can be shaped and pressed and will continue to hold its shape... A popular project using Peltex would be Amy Butler's Weekender Bag.  I will also use it for the base of some bags which need additional support.  Also, it's great for crafting fabric baskets and bins!

Source: jcarolinecreative.com via Melissa on Pinterest

Fusible Fleece:
 Fleece is a great way to cushion your bags, provide a bit more body and it helps to make them look professional, too.  You can use fleece as a sew-in, but fusible fleece makes life a little bit easier by also helping to reinforce your fabric... kind of like a 2-in-1 step. (Again, I prefer Pellon Brand)  I used it in this pleated tote:

** It is important to know that when using firm Interfacings and Interlingings, you are more than likely making a bag/item that is not going to be machine washable.  Machine washing can break down the product's ability to keep it's shape; I would take that into consideration when offering care advice... I usually recommend ScotchGuard brand fabric protector, using it according to the manufacturer's instructions. 



All of the photos I've shown in this post are examples of bags using different types of interlings and interfacings.  Here is a photo of my very first handbag, I didn't use anything other than a piece of Warm and Natural for the quilting... notice that my poor bag never kept shape and even after pressing, is still pretty slouchy! (Not to mention the handles are super thin)... lessons learned. *wink*

I encourage you to try Interfacing for your projects, you will be amazed by the results... be sure to follow manufacturers instructions for best results. 


Looking for other parts to the guide? Check them out here:
[Part 1: Fabric Grain], [Part 2: Prep & Cutting], [Part 3: Pre-cuts]


XxOo~ Melissa

The SoChick Chick's Guide to Fabric [Part 3: Fat Quarters & Pre-cuts]

The SoChick Chick's Guide to Fabric is my little road-map to fabric, some tips and tricks I've learned along the way and am sharing with you.  And, i'm not going to lie, a total excuse to play with and talk about fabric... I am a Fabric Addict, you know!?

[Part 3: Fat Quarters and Pre-cuts]

What is a Fat Quarter (aka FQ)?

Common for quilting, a FQ is a quarter yard of fabric, but not as it's cut off of the bolt.  Whaaat?  Let me show you:

* Please excuse the crazy amount of wrinkles in my pretty fabric! Holy Moly! *blushing*

So, Why Fat Quarters?


See for yourself...


looking at the images again, you'll notice that a true quarter yard of fabric is skinny, at only 9 in long, and wide.


If you are using a fabric for it's print, and let's face it, you most likely are, a true quarter yard isn't giving you much to work with.  See, those poor gals in my fabric would be headless if I cut it at 1/4 yard!


A fat quarter on the other hand (third photo) gives you 18 inches of length.  Therefore, you get more workable print in this cut.  Yay, our ladies have heads!


Even if you are using solids, a Fat Quarter will give you more room to work with when it comes to lengthwise grain.


Why do I love Fat Quarters and think you should too?


For starters, Fat Quarters are a great way to learn about, and try out, different designers and manufacturers without committing to several yards of fabric up front.  A great option for beginners!!  When I started sewing, I would purchase pre-cuts to familiarize myself with the different options available... If I liked it, I went on to purchase it by the yard.  This is especially helpful if you live in an area where premium fabrics are hard to find and the majority of your fabric shopping is done online.  


FQs are also great for when you are trying to save money on a project.  Of course, if you are making garments that require yardage, you'll need to purchase yardage, but for accessories, some handbags and smaller crafts, FQs are the way to go.


Generally you can find Fat Quarters ranging in cost from $2.50- $3.50 each. So, yes, when you purchase Four Fat Quarters, you will probably pay slightly more than you would for a full-yard cut of fabric, but you will have Four different prints! Bundles can cost around $30-ish, so you can end up with loads of prints for your stash! (And, THAT makes perfect cents! I'm a geek, I know.)


I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for".  I would not purchase cheap/poorly made fabric for use in a project that I am gifting (or selling!) to someone.  Why put your time and effort into something that's going to fall apart and not hold up because you chose poor quality materials?  You can keep costs down by purchasing a few FQs from a good quality fabric line without having to put out the money or a yard of each print.

Here are some item's I've made that use Fat Quarters:

SoChick's Daisy Handbag (using 3 FQs):

SoChick Boxie Pouch (Using 2 FQs.. also here's my Free Pattern, too)

See a fabric collection you love? Purchase the FQ Bundle, then you can order yardage of the prints you will use most and save the others for accents, etc.

This is a Fat Quarter Bundle I purchased from Fat Quarter Shop a while back.

Other Pre-Cuts include:


Fat Eigths (Half of a FQ, cut in half vertically)


Charm Packs (usually 5" x 5" squares)


Jelly Rolls, etc (Pre-cut strips of fabric)


Smaller pre-cuts are fun to play with, especially for piecing and quilting-style projects.  But, also, a great way to familiarize yourself with the great quality fabrics and prints that are available out there!


Some of my fav places to find Fat Quarters, pre-cuts and bundles:


Fat Quarter Shop


Etsy (lots of independent shops that sell individual FQ cuts as well as bundles)




Next, a crash course in using interfacing and interlinings to make your handmade items shine!




Just joining in? Check out the previous parts of my guide:

[Part 1: Fabric Grain]

[Part 2: Pre-washing & Cutting Fabric]

I hope you are finding this guide helpful, feel free to tell me in the comments below!





XxOo~ Melissa

The SoChick Chick's Guide to Fabric [Part 2: Pre-washing & Cutting Fabric]

Today we are continuing along with my Guide to Fabric by talking about the prep and cutting of our quilting cotton.  Last week I talked about Fabric Grain, if you missed it, check it out here: [Part 1: Fabric Grain]

[Part 2: Pre-Washing & Cutting Fabric]


Pre-Washing:


I find that it is usually recommended that you pre-wash your fabric before cutting it; we're talking quilting cottons for the purpose of this guide.  Mostly this applies to fabric that is being used in a project that will be laundered once it is made: garments, quilting, small "washable" accessories and the like.


When I pre-wash my quilting cottons, I wash on cold with mild detergent and tumble dry warm. I'm always careful to remove my fabric from the dryer asap... otherwise, its a wrinkled mess!  


Once my fabric is washed and dried, I will press it with a hot iron, on cotton setting, with steam.  


The key phrase here is Press.  
What is the difference between ironing and pressing?  Well, when you press fabric you are doing just that: Press, lift, press.  Basically, you lift the iron slightly off of the fabric, this is where steam helps out, then place it down again on the next section you are pressing.  Ironing applies pressure to the fabric combined with a back and forth movement that can distort your fabric grain, true story, so we stay away from that method for our sewing projects.


*Note: I do not pre-wash fabric for bag making, I feel that by not washing, the fabric will stay crisp and bright, which is desirable for some bag styles.  Also, bags that have structure should not be machine washed.  When spot cleaning is the recommended method of cleaning for a given project, I say, skip pre-washing.

Once our fabric is ready, it's time to cut!

Cutting Fabric:

Tools for Cutting Fabric

I use two methods when making width-of-fabric cuts (cutting straight across from selvage to selvage):

The first is folding the fabric in half with the selvage edges lined up and making a straight cut across the width, with a ruler and rotary blade.

Be sure that your rotary blade runs alongside your ruler.

The second is not actually cutting at all, it's ripping.  By making a small cut, with scissors, through one selvage, I will then rip the fabric straight across to the other selvage by pulling the two pieces apart.  Ripping fabric in this way will give you a line that is true to grain.  Some folks swear by only ripping their fabric and while I do like to do it when taking yardage from a bolt, for my sewing purposes it's not really necessary... I'm not a full-time ripper, haha.

Once you have your yardage ready you can cut it per your project's
 requirements.


Always "Measure Twice, Cut Once".  This is an old standby for sewing... and so important for saving time, and money!  Also, dimensions for straight cuts are Length by Width. (Good to know for cutting rectangular pieces, which are sometimes not printed as pattern pieces)


Cutting With Scissors:


I often find people who say their #1 reason for not sewing is "I can't cut in a straight line".  Well, neither can I... not if I'm eyeballing it anyway.  This is where it's super handy to have a ruler and tailor's chalk, or a water soluble pen, handy.


Using a ruler and chalk, simply measure and mark your lines parallel or perpendicular to the selvage, or grain, of the fabric you are cutting.  Once your lines are marked, you can take a pair of fabric scissors and cut along the lines you just made... This makes cutting in a straight line much easier.

Once lines are marked, cut with fabric scissors for straight lines.

Cutting With a Rotary Blade & Cutting Mat:

This is my preferred way to cut fabric.  If you are planning on spending time with fabric and your sewing machine, you should invest in a good rotary cutter and self-healing mat... aaaand a ruler, but you should have that already.



Of all of the rulers I have, I think I use my acrylic 3 1/2 x 18 1/2 inch one the most.



Simply lay your fabric down on your mat, with the selvage parallel to the lines on your mat; place your acrylic ruler on top and move your rotary blade along the edge of the ruler, applying slight pressure to make your cut.  With a sharp rotary blade, you should not have to press hard on your fabric to cut it.

Cut along the ruler's edge for a straight, clean, line.

Your rotary blade will run alongside the ruler's edge,
making for a straight cut.

Using a pattern:

I always pin my pattern pieces to the fabric I am cutting.  Sometimes by doing this, I can layer a few pieces of fabric to be cut, pin them all together with the pattern piece and make one cut.  I use fabric scissors when cutting around pattern pieces; this is where good quality dressmaker shears come in handy to cut through layers!

Remember to pin within your pattern piece
to avoid hitting pins with your scissors, which will ruin them!

So, there you have it, are you ready to cut into some fabulous fabric with no worries?  I hope so!


Next, I'll be talking about pre-cut fabrics (Fat Quarters, Fat Eigths, Charm Packs, etc) and why you should use them!


[Part 3: Fat Quarters & Pre-Cuts]


XxOo~ Melissa 

The SoChick Chick's Guide to Fabric [Part 1: Fabric Grain]

Why a Guide to Fabric, you ask?  Simple, when you are starting on a journey it is nice to have a map to help you get from point a to point b; when you know where your headed and what to expect, you can spend more time enjoying the journey instead of having to stop along the way to ask directions.  In short, if you know what's up about fabric, the time you spend sewing with it is going to be much less frustrating, and that much more enjoyable! 

Remember that this is a guide, and as we get into tips and tricks, I will be sharing info that I have found to be most helpful in my sewing journey.  Each of us has a way and a style that suits our sewing needs.  As your love of sewing grows (and it will) you will find your own way and style of doing things... this is merely a jumping off point.

Also, for the most part, this Guide covers working with Quilting Cotton, though other types of fabric may be thrown in for good measure. *wink*

Enjoy!

Part 1: [Fabric Grain]

When working with fabric, I feel that it is super important to know about fabric grain and how it may affect the outcome of your sewing project.  So, I have decided that this will be the starting point for this Guide to Fabric.

Fabric Grain is as important in quilting as it is in garment sewing, as it is in handbag & accessory sewing!  Basically, fabric grain is the way threads are woven in a given piece of fabric, or yardage of fabric.

Elements of Fabric Grain:

Lengthwise Grain: aka Warp These are the threads that are secured to the loom first and run through the length of yardage on a bolt of fabric, also called Warp threads. These threads run parallel to the fabric's selvage. They have little to no stretch.

Crosswise Grain: aka Weft These threads are woven back and fourth along the Warp threads to create the fabric; they run perpendicular to the Selvage.  Because these threads are woven along the lengthwise grain, they have a slight amount of stretch to them.

Selvage:  This is the tightly woven edge of the fabric that runs parallel to the lengthwise grain and consists of approximately 1/4 - 1/2 inch along both sides of the fabric.  Often you can find the manufacturer, fabric designer, and color information printed along the Selvage of Quilting Cotton.

Bias: The Bias runs at a 45 degree angle of the Lengthwise and Crosswise Grains.  Cutting on the bias allows for the most amount of stretch in the fabric, which is especially helpful for quilt binding, piping and anything else that needs movement (think flowing skirts and ruffles).

When looking at the wrong side of the fabric,
you can clearly see the warp and weft threads.

**Cutting on the Lengthwise or Crosswise grain is called "Cutting on grain" or "Cutting on the Straight-of-grain" .  Many commercial patterns will direct you with an arrow, or some form of marking, when you need to line the pattern piece up with the fabric grain.

There are some sewing crafts where it really doesn't matter how you cut your fabric or if it is on grain.  It is important in quilting and garment sewing because how you cut your fabric can greatly alter your project, especially once it has been machine washed.

For bag making, I always cut my fabric on the straight grain.  It is important that fabric for straps and handles is cut on grain, this allows for even wear and prevents stretching and twisting.

Lengthwise Grain has the least amount of stretch:

Crosswise Grain has a little more stretch:

Bias cuts have the most stretch:

**Knowing how much stretch each grain allows will help when going through scraps whose selvage has been cut away.

That should do ya for today's fabric guide... next, I'll talk about cutting fabric and how to be sure you are cutting true to grain.

[Part 2: Pre-washing & Cutting Fabric]

Have a fabulous day!

XxOo~ Melissa